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Recap: Understanding Type 4 Hair


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We’ve written about hair types a lot so this is not a new topic but it’s an important one. So we’ve decided to recap Type 4 hair subtypes, especially for the newbies who have just entered the natural hair movement.

When it comes to natural hair, Type 4 is known for its tightly coiled, beautifully textured curls, often referred to as “kinky” or “coily.” This hair type has incredible versatility, volume, and texture, making it distinct from any other type. Type 4 hair is unique, and understanding its characteristics is essential for creating a hair care routine that nourishes, protects, and celebrates its beauty.

Subtypes of Type 4 Hair

Type 4 hair is further categorised into three main subtypes, each with its own set of qualities:


4A: Defined, Tight CoilsType 4A hair forms tight, springy coils that resemble an “S” shape. These curls are well-defined and may shrink up to 50-60% of their actual length. Due to the defined curls, 4A hair generally responds well to creamy, moisturising products that keep the curls bouncy and hydrated.

4B: Z-Shaped Coils with Less DefinitionType 4B hair has a distinct “Z” shape, which creates a slightly less defined coil pattern. This hair type is more prone to dryness and requires more moisture to stay soft and manageable. 4B hair also has a high level of shrinkage (up to 70%), making it appear shorter than it actually is. Lightweight creams, leave-in conditioners, and gentle styling techniques can help keep these strands nourished and defined.

4C: Tight, Undefined CoilsType 4C hair is the most tightly coiled and has very little definition naturally. The coils are so tight that they can shrink up to 75-80% of their true length. Type 4C is also highly prone to dryness and breakage, so it needs deep conditioning, moisture retention, and protective styling to maintain health. It’s the most delicate of the Type 4 subtypes and benefits from gentle handling, rich oils, and frequent moisturisation.

Type 4 hair, in general, shares certain defining characteristics that make it special, namely:


  1. Shrinkage: As mentioned, shrinkage is a common trait across Type 4 hair. While some may see this as a disadvantage, shrinkage is actually a sign of healthy, well-moisturised hair! Learning to work with shrinkage rather than against it is key to loving your Type 4 hair.


  1. Prone to Dryness: Due to its tightly coiled structure, natural oils from the scalp have a harder time travelling down the strands of Type 4 hair. This means that it’s more prone to dryness, and thus, moisturising becomes a critical step in the care routine.


  1. Delicate Structure: Type 4 hair is more fragile due to its twists and turns. The more coils, the more prone the hair is to breakage. That’s why gentle handling and low-manipulation styles are so essential.


Type 4 hair comes with its own set of needs but offers unparalleled beauty, versatility, and resilience. By understanding the unique traits of Type 4 hair and embracing its needs, you can truly enjoy it. And we really hope you do!


Love, MPL

Your Hair Doctor


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